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There’s no better place in the world to start the new year than Samui.
And as the holidaymakers are slowly recovering from the excesses of the New Year celebrations, the rest of us here on Samui are cracking on and getting back to work. None more so than our feature writers, who are running backwards and forwards around the island picking up all the latest wining and dining news. But it must be said that it’s not that bad a job, as they’re often invited to go beyond the call of duty and tuck into some of the best cuisine you’ll find in all of Thailand whilst they’re interviewing the food experts about their restaurants.
Feature Writer, Rob De Wet, starts off his January by joining in the Thai cooking class at Samui Buri Beach Resort, in Maenam, and comes away more than capable of hosting a Thai cuisine dinner party – I just hope I’m invited when it actually happens. Then he’s over to Chaweng’s most celebrated beachside Italian restaurant – Olivio – at the chic Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Spa, where he spends a typical day with its charming Restaurant Manager, Khun Komvika Rodchangphuen, and finds out what she does in front of and behind the scenes.
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January’s Thai cooking class is at Samui Buri Beach Resort, in Mae Nam.
“There comes a tide in the affairs of men . . .” when they need to get out and about for a bit! Shakespeare never made it to Samui. But if he had, then he would most certainly have written something along these lines. And then, having become completely seduced by Thai cuisine, no doubt have quickly set off in search of a Thai cooking class to find out how to make it for himself.
And, in the same way as most folks visiting Samui, he would have looked at what his own resort offered first. Ah, but there’s the dilemma. There are now dozens of excellent classes being held every day all over the place, and they’re all different in the way they’re presented, the location and the content. Not to mention the cost. Or the bonus that an excursion to somewhere new for a cooking class makes a great mini-trip as well as being a welcome change of scene.
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Chinese New Year is the biggest event on the Chinese calendar. It’s about family, ancestry, tradition and particularly food.
“Happy New Year! Give me money!” Whilst that phrase might seem, to some, an unexpected utterance at such an occasion. To the Chinese, it is the archetypal New Year’s greeting, said in Cantonese, “Kung Hei Fat Choi! Lai see dau loi!” The money they are referring to is found tucked away in little red paper packets, called lai see. In China and Hong Kong, pretty much anyone and everyone will be passing these around at the time of Chinese New Year. Some with hefty sums within, and others with a few token coins. It’s the thought that counts. Well, so they say.
And then there are the gifts. The Chinese economy sees a hefty boost during this season when people in the millions flock to shopping malls and markets gathering presents for their loved ones. They also buy decorations for the house and front doors, and windows become bright red and gold beacons of celebratory joy. The whole New Year period is about giving gifts, spending time with your family, and forgetting your worries. All existing grudges and quibbles are dropped – it’s a new year and a fresh start! Families gather within lovingly embellished homes to share the experience they have been waiting a whole year for. To bring in the New Year, and, of course, to feast.
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January’s ‘Chef of The Month’ is Khun Raden Kaew-Udon at Beyond The Sea Siamese Brasserie.
Our Kitchen King this month has been developing his craft for more than 25 years. And he has spent the vast majority of his career at some of Samui’s very best resort restaurants. Executive Chef, Raden Kaew-Udon, better known to everyone as Khun Dhen, now leads the brigade at ShaSa Resort & Residences on the south of the island. We caught up with him recently to find out more about his culinary style and life as a chef at ShaSa’s Beyond The Sea Siamese Brasserie.
JP: Tell us about your background please, Chef.
RKU: I’m originally from the Central region of Thailand but came to Samui as a young man to work. Initially, I was just helping out in a kitchen but as soon as I saw the kinds of dishes the chefs were making I wanted to know more. I took a keen interest and the head chef I was working for at the time gave me an opportunity to prove myself. And I haven’t stopped learning about food ever since; when you’re passionate about something you become immersed in it.
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Baitong Restaurant Terrace & Bar is getting rave reviews, with every justification.
“I don’t want reviews to be very good,” says Khun Supit Choo-in, General Manager of Banana Fan Sea Beach Resort in Chaweng. “I want them to be excellent. That's my target.”
Khun Supit is talking about reviews on travel sites, where resorts are rated by customers on everything from the quality of the food in the restaurant to the friendliness of the staff throughout. And it’s clear that for this energetic, friendly man, anything less than ‘excellent’ just won’t cut it.
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Traditional herbal remedies and strong liquor combine to create the intoxicating Thai ‘medicine’ yaa-dong.
Most people like a drink from time to time. In many countries and cultures, religious beliefs aside, it’s a large part of any social gathering or celebration. And when you’re on holiday it’s almost customary to try some of the local brews, whether that’s beers, wines or spirits.
Thailand does have two major breweries which produce Singha and Chang as well as several other lesser known brands. There’re half a dozen wineries and a couple of companies producing rums and ‘whiskies’. And you may well have tried the SangSom or Mekhong brands in some of the bars around the island.
Despite being known in Thailand as ‘whiskies’ both are actually rums, with SangSom actually winning a couple of gold medals in 1982 and 1983 at competitions in Madrid and Düsseldorf. Mekhong was created by the American playwright, James Honzatko, in 1941 whilst he was living on the banks of the Mekong River. It’s made from 95% sugar cane and 5% rice with the addition of a secret blend of herbs and spices. It was developed further in the mid 1940s and has been mass produced by Thai companies ever since.
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January has many culinary-related curiosities – here are just a few of them!
Food is never far out of mind, particularly here, on Samui. And, in this regular series of articles, we check back through the years to some of the people, places and events that have been even vaguely significant in the world of wining and dining. And the month of January sees not only lots of disasters but more strange presidential behaviour than at any other time of the year!
1st – This was the day, in 2009, that Chinese farmer, Hao Xianzhang, revealed for the first time the fruits of his labours: he’d perfected a way to grow pears inside plastic Buddha moulds.
2nd – And on this day, in 2008, a middle-aged man was observed whacking a vending machine with a hammer and yelling, “They’re all trapped inside!” Investigations by the police in Boise, Idaho, unearthed no little green men. But they did reveal a quantity of crack cocaine in the man’s possession.
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Khun Kae, the charming Restaurant Manager at Olivio Italian Cuisine.
It’s hard to know what their jobs are just by looking. Most of them seem to be doing much the same sort of thing. Sure, one of them is obviously taking care of the bathers by the pool. He’s easy to spot. And several go in and out of the kitchen. Altogether it takes a while to work out what each of the staff member’s role is. But, if you watch carefully, one of those friendly service staff will be doing more than the others, and with an air of authority. And that’s probably the restaurant manager. And, in the case of Olivio Italian Cuisine, that’s Khun Komvika Rodchangphuen.
Khun Kae (as she’s known as) has been the restaurant manager here for exactly two years, having taken over the position in January 2010. Over the years, Olivio has established a reputation for itself as one of the island’s leading Italian restaurants. There are several other super Italian eateries, true, but when it comes to traditional Italian cuisine in a magnificent beachside setting, Olivio is where most of our Italian visitors like to dine. It simply buzzes with life and really does have the feel of a Sicilian trattoria.
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The Bre-Eze restaurant is just a part of Fair House Villas & Spa’s food and beverage operation.
Let’s begin with a lovely tropical island, basking in the sun. Add the expected palm trees and unspoiled beach, and already the mix is looking promising. But then stir in a spacious resort, sturdily built along traditional lines but modern and airy, too. And top it off with a wide and shady restaurant running along a wide expanse of beachfront. It’s an excellent recipe for an evening out. And it’s exactly what you’ll find when you go along to visit Fair House Villas & Spa.
Mae Nam, and its neighbouring strip of Bo Phut, now has more than a few quality resorts and restaurants. Many of the resorts thereabouts are prominent and impose their presence upon the ring-road, being situated on that convenient parcel of land that runs between the road and the beach. But Fair House Villas is tucked away. It’s a big resort, sure enough, and warrants electric buggies to get around. It’s secluded and private and well off the main-strip although it’s easily found if you continue around the sharp bend at Zazen Boutique Resort & Spa, coming away from the direction of Chaweng. A hundred metres or so after the bend, there’s a road to the right; it’s well sign-posted, follow this for a while and you’ll soon arrive at the resort’s imposing entrance.
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An evening out at Chomtalay’s lavish and affordable ‘Let’s Meat’ Buffet.
Dining-out on Samui is one of the island joys; the variety of cuisine here is just so good. But if there’s a group of you, or you’re here with young children, then the costs of quality dining can soon mount up. Even indulging in a beach barbecue can become expensive. But not if it’s done properly. As it is at Chomtalay Restaurant.
Chomtalay is the comfortable and laid-back beachside restaurant of Chaweng Regent Beach Resort, at the northern section of Chaweng Beach. This is one of the island’s longer-established resorts, large and luxurious, with extensive mature grounds and two superb eateries. You find the chic Red Snapper Restaurant & Bar sitting up on the main Chaweng Beach Road itself. But if you stroll through the grounds, past the greenery and little cottages and down towards the beach, you’ll emerge by the big swimming pool, with the warm lights of Chomtalay to your right. And right on the sand beyond, in all its fine-dining elegance with snowy cloths and 5-star service, you’ll see what’s known as ‘Let’s Meat’. It’s held every Tuesday night starting at 6:30 pm and it takes the form of a very refined buffet indeed.
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Sometimes a song’s title can leave a strange taste in the mouth.
“If music be the food of love, play on.” said Orsino in Shakespeare’s ‘Twelfth Night’. And more than 400 years later, food still finds its way into music. There’re hundreds of songs with references to food in their titles but not all of them should be taken literally. Here are our top ten songs on the subject that deserve a little explanation.
1) American Pie by Don McLean is a folk rock song recorded and released on the ‘American Pie’ album in 1971; the single was a #1 US hit for four weeks in 1972. A re-release in 1991 didn’t chart in the US but did reach number two in the UK. The song is a recounting of the 1959 plane crash that killed Buddy Holly, Ritchie Valens and The Big Bopper (Jiles Perry Richardson, Jr.). Contrary to rumours, the plane that crashed was not named the ‘American Pie’, McLean made up the name. And he has said in numerous interviews that the song represented the turn from innocence of the 50s to the darker, more volatile times of the 60s – both in music and politics.
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The Spirit House Restaurant & Spa takes your mind, body and soul to another level.
Rest and relaxation mean different things to different people. But for most holidaymakers, spending the first few days on Samui by the pool with a good book tends to fit the bill. And that gives your body time to get over the jet-lag and frees your mind from the everyday stresses of work and home life.
After a while, however, your mind and body will crave new stimuli. And yearn for activities where you can have some fun, learn something new, experience the unexpected and still feel relaxed and at peace. And that’s exactly what the Spirit House Restaurant & Spa Resort has to offer.
If you haven’t been before then you’re in for a very pleasant surprise. Set just off the Beach Road in the southern part of Chaweng, near the junction to Laem Din market, the Spirit House is like nothing else on the island. A passing glance and you might think that it’s an old ruined temple in need of some repairs. But look closer and you’ll see a great deal more.
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It’s ‘Hangover Season’ again but why is it that we suffer so much and can we prevent it?
Ouch! It’s 11:45 am and the world is distinctly fuzzy. Your brain has shrunk down to the size of a shrivelled old prune and its last quivering cell is working overtime to summon some form of magic relief from this horrific ordeal. Even though you’d sworn you’d never let yourself get into this state again, you’ve done it. Yes, you’ve guessed. It’s the morning after the night before and you’ve just woken up with a massive hangover.
Holidaymakers on Samui aren’t exactly renowned for their regular attendance at the local book clubs and knitting classes. And let’s face it, this hedonistic reputation is not totally unjustified, especially during the Christmas and New Year festivities when most of the population may well have had the odd tipple too many. And whilst the effects of a hangover are well documented and fairly universal, the cure for such an affliction is not. George Clooney says, “My hangover cure is simple – don’t get one.” And we all know that prevention over remedy is the best solution, but it’s not always that straightforward. Beer before wine and your fine, wine before beer and you’re … Or was it the other way around? It’s all a bit confusing. Rhymes aside, managing one’s alcoholic consumption like you would the King’s procession is somewhat unrealistic and, let’s face it, boring. Sorry George.
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Food and Beverage Manager, Mark Groh, explains how everything is not as it seems at Twisted Thai.
It’s not every day that Thai food gets dubbed ‘exquisite’. But at Twisted Thai, it’s a daily occurrence. And not only is the presentation akin to fine dining – it also looks nothing like Thai food! Ingredients for typical Thai dishes, a tom kha gai, for example, are put together in a totally novel way here. So, whilst what you’re presented with may taste as you expect – it won’t look as you’d expect. Food and Beverage Manager, Mark Groh, gives us a sneaky peek into the mystical world of molecular dining at Twisted Thai restaurant, beachside of Imperial Samui Beach Resort in Chaweng Noi.
CW: Tell us about the concept?
MG: Our name, Twisted Thai, really explains the concept. We use famous Thai dishes and give them a twist! By using modern cooking technologies we can change the textures of food and are able to put dishes together in a totally new way. When you see your dish arrive you think, “Wow, what is that?” but when you eat it you realise, “Oh, I know this taste.” That’s the concept. It’s a modern Thai restaurant and one of the first to have Thai molecular cuisine. Many people have heard of molecular cuisine but we don’t want to announce the word molecular too much because it scares some people!
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When prawns are farmed, they’re a lot easier to catch.
Prawn – or is it shrimp? It really all depends on where you are. In some countries larger species are referred to as prawns and smaller species as shrimp. Other places, like the USA, have the differentiation the other way round. Some chefs and cookbooks say the difference is size. Small and medium shrimp are sold as, well, shrimp, while large or jumbo are sold as prawns. But this ‘rule’ doesn’t always hold! The Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations has attempted to clear things up with definitions of its own. According to them, a shrimp is a saltwater crustacean and a prawn is a freshwater crustacean. So let’s leave it at that for now.
Regardless of what they’re called, they adorn just about every menu in most countries. And, nowadays, are farmed and are relatively inexpensive. They’re also particularly versatile and are used in stir-fries, deep-fried, battered, thrown into salads and sandwiches, chopped up and used in dips, tossed into curries or combined with other seafood.
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An idyllic minimalist retreat and restaurant tucked away in the south of Samui.
It’s a fact. There’re two types of resort on Samui. The first is the sort that you’ll see. They’re right on the road. Or you’ll walk past them on the beach. You can see them. You’ll be attracted – tempted even – by the warm lights of their beachside eateries. Or you’ll stop in for a drink by the pool.
And then there’s the other sort. The ones you can’t see. Those that are hidden from view. Off the track or up the hill. Those venues with views. Or the places with style that sit right on the sand. But tucked away. Quite often nearby, but sometimes remote. Whichever the case, there’s a whole treasure trove of dining gems hidden all around the island. Big Buddha and butterflies are marked on the map; farms and monkeys, too. But some of the best places to go to eat are almost a secret. Such as, for instance, the intriguingly-named X2.
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Joining the locals in Chaweng for lunch at Daeng’s Restaurant.
Each month our photographer, Khun Grit, and I take a wander around the island. Our purpose is to drop into a local Thai restaurant that visitors to the island probably wouldn’t know about, and try it out for ourselves. They tend to be places that locals and expats who live nearby frequent, have traditional Thai fare and are good value for money.
Our travels often take us down to the south of the island and over to the west coast. However, this month we popped into a bustling part of Chaweng off the Beach Road and had lunch at Daeng’s Restaurant. It’s easy enough to find, if you are on the lake road with the Pizza Company, McDonald’s and Starbucks on your right and the lake on your left then continue on to the top of the road. At the mini-roundabout, turn right and it’s about 200 metres along on the right-hand side, 20 metres before a 7-11 store. You can park up on the opposite side of the road or there’s a little paved road down the side of the restaurant that you can get a car down and you can park up around the back.
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January’s ‘Thai Culinary Website of The Month’ is www.chef-a-gogo.com.
This website is as much a voyage of discovery for the reader as it is for the site’s author. I happened upon it by chance and spent a good hour browsing through it and learning more about Chef Shane and his culinary adventures. And the more I read, the more I liked the guy.
His background information is a story that many of you will relate to and even admire. And his recipes, photographs and love of food will both inspire you and perhaps even create a little jealousy. He was born and grew up in New Zealand and then spent nearly 20 years in Australia working as a chef and raising a family. In 2004, he decided to break-out of his comfort zone and has since worked in Dubai, Thailand and is currently in Da Nang, in Vietnam. He’s also travelled widely in South-east Asia and his website is all about the amazing food he’s experienced from street stalls to fine-dining.
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Forget about all those antiquated wine rules – here are 10 brand new guidelines to follow.
1) Don’t worry about others’ opinions.
If you don’t pick up those subtle hints of ‘kaffir lime leaf’, ‘mouldy blackcurrant tones’ and ‘the sweet muskiness reminiscent of Grandma’s bottom drawer’ when you put your nose into the glass at a pretentiously serious wine tasting, never mind. Take a look at two different tasting notes for the same bottle of wine, same vineyard, same vintage – but written by two different critics and you’ll find huge differences of opinion. The critics hardly ever taste or smell the same things. Which means that your guess is as good as anyone’s, even wine critics. So drink. Decide what you like. But if you detect a hint of cat’s pee in an expensive Sauvignon Blanc, best keep it to yourself!
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